Restoring Your Youthful Appearance

Facial rejuvenation is the term used to encompass all forms of restoring a youthful appearance to the face. It includes the broad categories of:

* Injectables (Botox® & fillers) (See BotoxFacts.ca for additional uses of Botox®);
* Resurfacing procedures (laser treatment, microdermabrasion & chemical peels);
* Surgical rejuvenation (brow lifts, eyelid surgery; facelifts, nose jobs, face and chin augmentation, and neck lifts);
* Topical tretinoin and tazarotene which reverse sun damage and enhance collagen production. The normal changes associated with facial aging are the result of both:

* intrinsic (age related fat and bone loss known as atrophy, and skin laxity for example) and
* extrinsic factors (like ultraviolet light / sunlight, chemicals, and smoking).

These factors contribute to biological changes associated with age and create predictable patterns of facial change. An over-simplistic analogy is mimicked by the changes in the helium balloon your child wouldn’t let you throw away. With time there is loss of internal volume (gas in this example) and as a result the covering loses its taught shape, luster, and becomes wrinkled. Moreover, there is a marked change in shape of the entire structure. Naturally, similar changes on your face can be highly distressing especially since many available treatments are being promoted.

Physicians can treat facial aging three ways: through reduction (making the skin “fit”), augmentation (“stretching” the skin back to normal) or a combination of the two.

When it comes to choosing a rejuvenation procedure, the severity of the facial aging must be considered. Here’s a review:

* Wrinkles (individual fine or deep rhytids) are managed well by Botox® or injectable fillers. Although other agents are touted to produce similar results, Botox® is currently unsurpassed in its ability to soften or eliminate wrinkles caused directly by the action of underlying muscles of facial animation. (Botox Facts has more information for you)

* For wrinkles that may not be contributed to directly by facial movement or for depressed scars; superficial or deep fillers (ranging from collagen, hyaluronic acid and poly-L-lactic acid to silicone particles and bone cement and even your own injected fat). These can also be used for wrinkles, scars, and soft tissue augmentation (most commnly lip augmentation).

* When you have wrinkles involving larger areas or if it’s related to sun-damage, the underlying problem commonly lies in the biological changes in the skin itself. Here rejuvenation methods such as laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels act to restore some of the lost intrinsic biologic properties of the skin and can provide a significant restorative change over these large areas. These treatments use light associated heat, physical sanding, or chemicals, respectively, to remove the surface layers of the skin and hence stimulate a regenerative-like process. Many common skin creams advertised to improve facial wrinkles contain glycolic or other acids used in light chemical peels to help improve the taughtness of your treated skin.

* As the severity of skin aging increases, injection and resurfacing procedures may be combined themselves or with surgical rejuvenation (possibly in a staged fashion).
* Surgical management of more severe forms of facial aging can be through an additive (implants), reductive (excisions or tucks), or combined approach. Modern rhinoplasties (“nosejobs”) are a good example where combined approaches of reduction by excision and

augmentation through cartilage grafting are employed. As these procedures typically address changes in the three-dimensional volume (deep structures) and in the skin (envelope or cover) they obviously provide the greatest extent of rejuvenation and can address the greatest degrees of facial change. That said, they do come with a limited amount of scaring and the possibly some temporary numbness. Often these scars, created in lines of election, are fine and highly acceptable with some rare exceptions.

* Topical tretinoin and tazarotene can improve fine lines and the general appearance of the skin. The down-side is that you need to continue to use these topical treatments in order to maintain its effect. Sometimes, tretinoin and tazarotene can be combined with the procedures listed above to enhance the effects.

Although you may hear more and more about treating aging skin with the procedures and products mentioned above, we all know that the best form of care is through modification of your exposure to the extrinsic “modifiable” risk factors, like sun exposure (See Skin Cancer Guide for more information).

By: Dr Bryce J Cowan BSc MSc MD PhD FRCS(C)

Skin Care and Aging

Americans spend billions of dollars each year on skin care products that promise to erase wrinkles, lighten age spots, and eliminate itching, flaking, or redness. But the simplest and cheapest way to keep your skin healthy and young looking is to stay out of the sun.

Sunlight is a major cause of the skin changes we think of as aging — changes such as wrinkles, dryness, and age spots. Your skin does change with age. For example, you sweat less, leading to increased dryness. As your skin ages, it becomes thinner and loses fat, so it looks less plump and smooth. Underlying structures — veins and bones in particular — become more prominent. Your skin can take longer to heal when injured.

You can delay these changes by staying out of the sun. Although nothing can completely undo sun damage, the skin sometimes can repair itself. So, it’s never too late to protect yourself from the harmful effects of the sun.

Wrinkles

Over time, the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) light damages the fibers in the skin called elastin. The breakdown of these fibers causes the skin to lose its ability to snap back after stretching. As a result, wrinkles form. Gravity also is at work, pulling at the skin and causing it to sag, most noticeably on the face, neck, and upper arms.

Cigarette smoking also contributes to wrinkles. People who smoke tend to have more wrinkles than nonsmokers of the same age, complexion, and history of sun exposure. The reason for this difference is not clear. It may be because smoking also plays a role in damaging elastin. Facial wrinkling increases with the amount of cigarettes and number of years a person has smoked.

Many products currently on the market claim to “revitalize aging skin.” According to the American Academy of Dermatology, over-the-counter “wrinkle” creams and lotions may soothe dry skin, but they do little or nothing to reverse wrinkles. At this time, the only products that have been studied for safety and effectiveness and approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to treat signs of sun-damaged or aging skin are tretinoin cream and carbon dioxide (CO2) and erbium (Er:YAG) lasers.

Tretinoin cream (Renova), a vitamin A derivative available by prescription only, is approved for reducing the appearance of fine wrinkles, mottled darkened spots, and roughness in people whose skin doesn’t improve with regular skin care and use of sun protection. However, it doesn’t eliminate wrinkles, repair sun-damaged skin, or restore skin to its healthier, younger structure. It hasn’t been studied in people 50 and older or in people with moderately or darkly pigmented skin.

The CO2 and Er:YAG lasers are approved to treat wrinkles. The doctor uses the laser to remove skin one layer at a time. Laser therapy is performed under anesthesia in an outpatient surgical setting.

The FDA currently is studying the safety of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are widely promoted to reduce wrinkles, spots, and other signs of aging, sun-damaged skin. Some studies suggest that they may work, but there is concern about adverse reactions and long-term effects of their use. Because people who use AHA products have greater sensitivity to the sun, the FDA advises consumers to protect themselves from sun exposure by using sunscreen, wearing a hat, or avoiding mid-day sun. If you are interested in treatment for wrinkles, you should discuss treatment options with a dermatologist.