Skin Care and Aging

Americans spend billions of dollars each year on skin care products that promise to erase wrinkles, lighten age spots, and eliminate itching, flaking, or redness. But the simplest and cheapest way to keep your skin healthy and young looking is to stay out of the sun.

Sunlight is a major cause of the skin changes we think of as aging — changes such as wrinkles, dryness, and age spots. Your skin does change with age. For example, you sweat less, leading to increased dryness. As your skin ages, it becomes thinner and loses fat, so it looks less plump and smooth. Underlying structures — veins and bones in particular — become more prominent. Your skin can take longer to heal when injured.

You can delay these changes by staying out of the sun. Although nothing can completely undo sun damage, the skin sometimes can repair itself. So, it’s never too late to protect yourself from the harmful effects of the sun.

Wrinkles

Over time, the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) light damages the fibers in the skin called elastin. The breakdown of these fibers causes the skin to lose its ability to snap back after stretching. As a result, wrinkles form. Gravity also is at work, pulling at the skin and causing it to sag, most noticeably on the face, neck, and upper arms.

Cigarette smoking also contributes to wrinkles. People who smoke tend to have more wrinkles than nonsmokers of the same age, complexion, and history of sun exposure. The reason for this difference is not clear. It may be because smoking also plays a role in damaging elastin. Facial wrinkling increases with the amount of cigarettes and number of years a person has smoked.

Many products currently on the market claim to “revitalize aging skin.” According to the American Academy of Dermatology, over-the-counter “wrinkle” creams and lotions may soothe dry skin, but they do little or nothing to reverse wrinkles. At this time, the only products that have been studied for safety and effectiveness and approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to treat signs of sun-damaged or aging skin are tretinoin cream and carbon dioxide (CO2) and erbium (Er:YAG) lasers.

Tretinoin cream (Renova), a vitamin A derivative available by prescription only, is approved for reducing the appearance of fine wrinkles, mottled darkened spots, and roughness in people whose skin doesn’t improve with regular skin care and use of sun protection. However, it doesn’t eliminate wrinkles, repair sun-damaged skin, or restore skin to its healthier, younger structure. It hasn’t been studied in people 50 and older or in people with moderately or darkly pigmented skin.

The CO2 and Er:YAG lasers are approved to treat wrinkles. The doctor uses the laser to remove skin one layer at a time. Laser therapy is performed under anesthesia in an outpatient surgical setting.

The FDA currently is studying the safety of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are widely promoted to reduce wrinkles, spots, and other signs of aging, sun-damaged skin. Some studies suggest that they may work, but there is concern about adverse reactions and long-term effects of their use. Because people who use AHA products have greater sensitivity to the sun, the FDA advises consumers to protect themselves from sun exposure by using sunscreen, wearing a hat, or avoiding mid-day sun. If you are interested in treatment for wrinkles, you should discuss treatment options with a dermatologist.

Chemical Peels - Are They Right for You?

With so many beauty products, facial treatments and surgical procedures available these days, it can be overwhelming to choose a treatment that is right for you. First off, when trying any new skincare treatment or procedure, it is always important to do your research, seek out reputable sources and never be afraid to ask questions, after all, it is your face – you only have one, so treat it accordingly. Selecting the right specialist or understanding details of a surgical procedure will be time consuming, be prepared to put in the time necessary to make the best choice. Below are some tips to help you get started.

Choose carefully. The Consumer Guide to Plastic Surgery recommends you:
•    Check educational, training, background credentials and experience to ensure that he or she is well-qualified
•    Ask how many times they have performed this procedure
•    Ask to see before and after photos of patients who have had chemical peels - in some cases offices will give you contact information of previous patients as referrals.

Dermatologists, plastic surgeons, licensed estheticians and registered nurses can all perform chemical peels. However, depending on the type of peel, you might need to see a doctor. Ensure your procedure is both safe and effective.

Schedule a skin consultation. A chemical peel is an aggressive treatment, it’s important that you get an in-depth analysis of your skin beforehand. When at the consultation, make sure the specialist knows your medical history and any prescriptions you may be taking. Be prepared to ask questions, such as what is my skin type? What are my skin concerns? How can chemical peels improve my skin? What kind of peel is best for my skin type?

Become a peel expert. There are three types of chemical peels: superficial, medium and deep. In addition, they increase substantially in cost depending on the peel. The cost ranges from $150 to $300 for superficial peels; $1,000 to $2,000 for medium peels and $2,500 up to $5,000 for deep peels, according to Smart SkinCare:
Superficial: The mildest of chemical peels, superficial peels treat fine lines, discoloration, dryness, roughness and mild acne. Results are subtle and you will need regular maintenance sessions. Estheticians typically perform superficial peels. Common solutions: Alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid), salicylic acid

Medium: These peels penetrate deeper into the skin, producing a second-degree burn. Medium peels treat wrinkles, pigmentation problems, sun damage and blemishes. You will need at least a week to recover. You’ll also need several peels to achieve desired results. Common solution: Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)
Deep: These peels target deep wrinkles, dramatic discoloration and skin lesions. Deep peels are the most effective, providing pronounced and long-lasting results. However, they are also riskier with longer recovery time—most people take two weeks off from work. A certified, experienced plastic surgeon must perform these peels. This peel is performed once. Common solution: Phenol

Consider your skin type. Be aware that a chemical peel is not always the best option for your skin type. These are several examples when a chemical peel isn’t appropriate or can be helpful. In most cases, a chemical peel should not be used on dry or sensitive skin. A peel might cause dryness, flakiness, itching and further inflammation. If you have inflammatory acne and deep cysts, you should also consult a dermatologist, as a chemical peel might not be the best treatment for those conditions.

Chemical peels are a good choice if you experience mild to moderate acne or acne scars: The acids in the peel work to both kill active blemishes on the surface and to prevent new blemishes from forming. By accelerating the exfoliation process, a chemical peel delivers clearer, healthier-looking skin.

Become an expert on your chemical peel. Before having the chemical peel, make sure you ask every question possible to ensure you are aware of the entire procedure and its potential complications.
Examples like; what strength is the peel? How many sessions will I need? What are the pros and cons? What kind of discomfort, pain and other reactions can I expect during the procedure? How should my skin react after the chemical peel?

Communication is key in making your chemical peel a safe experience. Clarify you are experiencing normal reactions or seek immediate attention if you think you are not. Remember if something doesn’t feel right, only you can speak up about it.

About two to four weeks prior to your chemical peel, the specialist will ask you to incorporate pre-care products into your daily regimen. These products are designed to thin out the skin’s surface, allowing the peel to penetrate deeper and evenly. Your medical expert might prescribe Retin-A, an AHA product or hydroquinone cream.
When using these new products, you might have to discontinue your old ones. Your specialist will give you specific information about what products to use and avoid.
Depending on the type of peel, your results might be subtle or dramatic. Every skin type reacts a bit differently. Be realistic about the results and fully understand to what degree the peel will improve your skin and whether you will need additional sessions to maintain results.